Free Crochet Baby Booties and Hats Patterns Made Easy

Crochet a pair of these cute and classic baby booties to welcome a new little one into the world! This free crochet pattern will teach you how to make soft and stretchy crochet booties that will be comfortable for baby to wear. These easy crochet baby booties are so cute, and make the perfect gift for a new baby girl or baby boy.

Crochet Baby Booties Pattern

Are you looking for a cute and classic crochet baby pattern? Then this free baby bootie crochet pattern is perfect for you. These cute little booties are an adorable baby shower gift, and a great addition to any newborn's wardrobe.

This professionally edited pattern will teach you everything you need to know to make classic baby booties. It's an easy pattern made with basic crochet stitches, so it's perfect for beginners and advanced crocheters alike. It's a gender-neutral design that you can customize to suit the little girl or boy in your life. And of course, you can adapt the pattern to fit all different sizes of little feet.

Why I love this pattern:

The booties have a ribbed, fold-down cuff to keep little feet warm and cozy without sacrificing style. (The stretchy ribbing also helps the booties stay on tiny feet!) I also like that these booties are made with worsted weight yarn, so they work up quickly when you need a last-minute present.

You can find the ad-free, printable PDF pattern right here.

Best Yarn for Baby Booties

Baby booties are such a special item, and I'm sure you want to choose the best yarn for this project.

When thinking about what type of yarn to use to make baby booties, choose something that is super soft, hypo-allergenic, and washable.

Wool yarns can be too scratchy for babies' soft skin. And cotton yarns tend to work up too stiff.

So, premium acrylic yarns are a great option for making crochet baby shoes. Yarn with a smooth, soft texture tends to be the best choice for babies. To determine if your yarn is soft enough, rub it on your cheek or neck. If it feels soft to you, it will be soft enough for the baby's feet too.

I chose to use a worsted weight yarn for this pattern. For these booties, I like to use Big Twist Soft Yarn from Joann and Lion Brand Basic Stitch. I've also used Caron Simply Soft, but find that I need to use a larger hook to meet gauge. You can choose whatever brand you like best, as long as you check your gauge.

Cute Baby Shoes Pattern

I know a lot of people start learning crochet to make items for a new baby. When designing this pattern, I wanted to create an easy beginner-friendly baby bootie pattern that moms would love.

This is a simple, modern baby bootie pattern that is perfect to make for baby shower gifts, baby's first Christmas, and other occasions. It's a gender-neutral design that you can customize with different colors of yarn

Baby Booties Size Chart

As I'm sure you know, all babies grow at different rates. For the most accurate fit, see if you can measure your baby's foot. Remember to add up to a half-inch of extra wiggle room in order to calculate the correct sole size.

To check your gauge, I recommend working up the entire sole section of the pattern and measuring its length. (The sole section is only 3 rounds, so it will go quickly!) That way, you'll know if you need to go up or down a hook size.

Age	Sole Size	Recommend Hook
Newborn	3.5	E/3.5mm
0-3 Months	3.75	G/4mm
3-6 Months	4.25	H/5mm
6-12 Months	4.75	J/6mm

Classic Baby Booties Crochet Pattern

Difficulty: Beginner to Easy

Finished Size: 3 months (3.75″ sole length) See the chart above for more sizes.

Materials

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (Category 4)

Crochet Hook: G/4mm hook to make a 3.75″ long bootie

You'll also need:

yarn needle
stitch markers, if desired
ruler or tape measure, if desired

Stitches and Abbreviations

sl st – slip stitch
st/sts – stitch/stitches
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together
hdc2tog – half double crochet two stitches together
dc2tog – double crochet two stitches together
BLO – back loops only

Special Stitches

I find that regular hdc2tog stitches can look a little too bulky, especially for small projects like baby shoes. Here is a different way to make a half-double decrease in an invisible way.

If you are familiar with invisible single crochet decreases for amigurumi, this is similar.

Invisible HDC decrease:

Step 1: Yarn over.

Step 2: Insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch of the decrease.

Step 3: Insert the hook into the front loop of the next stitch of the decrease.

Step 4: Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on hook.

Step 5: Yarn over and draw through the last three loops on hook.

You can use this stitch whenever I call for a hdc2tog decrease in the pattern.

Pattern Notes

This pattern is written in US/American terms.
The sole and the upper section is written in joined rounds. (You will not turn the work in between rounds.)
The cuff section is written in rows. (You will turn the work in between rows.)
Use a stitch marker to mark your first stitch of the row/round.
At the end of each round, join the round with a slip stitch to the first stitch of the same round.
Chain 1 to begin a round. Chain 1 does not count as a stitch.

How to Read a Crochet Pattern

Crochet patterns are written using many abbreviations and terms, which save space and make patterns easier to read. Here are some tips:

Unless the pattern indicates otherwise, assume that you move on to the next stitch. For example, "3 hdc" means to work 1 hdc into each of the next 3 stitches. If the pattern wants you to work 3 dc all into the same place, it will say "3 dc in next st"
( ) Parentheses are used to indicate a group of stitches that are to be worked together into a stitch.
[ ] Brackets are used to tell you how many times to work a certain step. The number immediately following the brackets tells you how many times to do the step.

For more beginner tips, make sure to read How to Crochet: A Complete Guide for Beginners

Sole Section

Round 1: Ch 10. In the second ch from the hook, make 2 hdc. 7 hdc. In the last ch, make 5 hdc. Continuing around the other side of the starting ch, make 7 hdc. Make 2 hdc in the last ch. Join with a sl st to the top of the first hdc. (23 sts)

Round 2: Ch 1. In the same st, make 2 sc. 2 sc in the next st. 4 sc, 3 hdc. 2 hdc in each of the next 5 sts. 3 hdc, 4 sc. 2 sc in each of the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (32 sts)

Round 3: Ch 1. Starting in the first stitch, [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times, 7 hdc, [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times, 7 hdc, [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times. Join with a sl st to the top of the first hdc. (42 sts)

Upper Section

The upper section is done in joined rounds. Each round will begin with a ch-1, which does not count as a stitch.

Important: Start each round by making the first crochet stitch into the same stitch as the slip stitch join, i.e. the first stitch of the round below. Continue around.

When you get to the end of the round, join to the first stitch with a slip stitch.

Here is a picture to illustrate the joins.

how to join crochet rounds with a slip stitch to the first stitch of the previous round

Round 4: Ch 1. (Does not count as a stitch here, or in the rounds that follow.) Hdc blo in the same st and in each st around. Join with a sl st to the top of the first hdc. (42 sts)

Round 5: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in each st around. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (42 sts)

Round 6: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 10 sts, hdc, [hdc2tog, hdc] two times, [dc2tog, dc] three times, dc2tog, [hdc, hdc2tog] two times, hdc, 6 sc. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (34 sts)

Round 7: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 12 sts, hdc, hdc2tog, 4 dc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc, 7 sc. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (28 sts)

Round 8: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 11 sts, hdc, 4 dc2tog, hdc, 6 sc. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (24 sts)

Notes: Some readers have said they are having trouble with their decreases looking asymmetrical, or off-center. Here are some suggestions:

First, and most importantly: The first stitch of each round must be made in the same stitch as the ch-1.
Second, be aware that the last stitch of Round 5 will be about 2-3 stitch lengths to the right of center. This is normal – the shifting seam is caused by the shape of crochet stitches – especially the hdc stitches. To compensate for the slanted seam, I've offset the decrease section in Round 6. This moves the decrease section over a few stitches so that the decreases line up exactly with the center midline of the sole.

Ribbed Cuff Section

The cuff section is worked in rows. Rows of back-loop single crochet create a flexible ribbing that you can fold down to make a cuff.

Note: The rows of ribbing are anchored to the previous round ("Upper" Round 8) by making a slip stitch at the start or end of the row.

Row 1: Ch 9. Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc 8. (8 sts)

Slip stitch into the next stitch of Round 8 of the Upper Section. This slip stitch anchors the row of single crochet you just made to the stitches from the last round of the bootie's upper section.

Then, make another slip stitch into the next stitch of Round 8 of the Upper Section. This second slip stitch counts as the turning chain for the next row.

Row 2: Don't chain 1, as the slip stitch you've just made counts as your turning chain. Rotate the bootie counterclockwise so that your working yarn crosses in front of your work. Pass the working yarn in front of your hook and to the back of your work. (See the picture above for clarification.)

Tip: I take this extra step of turning the work counterclockwise and passing the yarn in front of the hook to minimize a bump you can get when working this add-on ribbing technique.

Starting in the third stitch from your hook (remember, skipping over those two slip stitches) make 8 sc-blo.

Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Starting in the second stitch from the hook, make 8 sc-blo. Slip stitch into the next stitch from "Upper" Round 8. Make another slip stitch into the next stitch from "Upper" Round 8.

Row 4, and all even rows: Follow directions from Row 2.

Row 5, and all odd rows: Follow directions from Row 3.

Finishing

When you have made 24 rows of ribbing, cut yarn and pull it through.

Leave a long tail of yarn and use it to seam the two ends of the ribbed cuff section.

And there you go, you've made adorable baby booties that any mom-to-be will love.

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What's Next?

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Instructions

Sole Section Round 1: Ch 10. In the second ch from the hook, make 2 hdc. 7 hdc. In the last ch, make 5 hdc. Continuing around the other side of the starting ch, make 7 hdc. Make 2 hdc in the last ch. Join with a sl st to the top of the first hdc. (23 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1. In the same st, make 2 sc. 2 sc in the next st. 4 sc, 3 hdc. 2 hdc in each of the next 5 sts. 3 hdc, 4 sc. 2 sc in each of the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (32 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1. Starting in the first stitch, [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times, 7 hdc, [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times, 7 hdc, [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times. Join with a sl st to the top of the first hdc. (42 sts)
Upper Section Round 4: Ch 1. (Does not count as a stitch here, or in the rounds that follow.) Hdc blo in the same st and in each st around. Join with a sl st to the top of the first hdc. (42 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in each st around. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (42 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 10 sts, hdc, [hdc2tog, hdc] two times, [dc2tog, dc] three times, dc2tog, [hdc, hdc2tog] two times, hdc, 6 sc. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (34 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 12 sts, hdc, hdc2tog, 4 dc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc, 7 sc. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (28 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 11 sts, hdc, 4 dc2tog, hdc, 6 sc. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (24 sts)
Cuff Section Row 1: Ch 9. Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc 8. Slip stitch into the next stitch of Round 8 of the Upper Section.
Row 2: Slip stitch into the next stitch of Round 8 of the Upper Section. Turn, do not ch 1. 8 sc-blo.
Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. 8 sc-blo. Slip stitch into the next stitch from the previous round.
Row 4, and remaining even rows: Follow instructions in row 2.
Row 5, and remaining odd rows: Follow instructions in row 3.
When you have made 24 rows of ribbing, cut yarn and pull it through. Leave a long tail of yarn and use it to seam the two ends of the ribbed cuff section.

Notes

The Upper Section is done in joined rounds. Each round will begin with a ch-1, which does not count as a stitch.
Start each round of the Upper Section by making the first crochet stitch into the same stitch as the ch-1. Continue around. When you get to the end of the round, join to the first stitch with a slip stitch.

Sarah Stearns has helped thousands of makers find their next craft project with free patterns and step-by-step tutorials on her blog, sarahmaker.com. Read more.

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